I stumbled across this site today that has all sorts of circuits to make, so if you are in to electronics check it out
Well after a bit of mucking around getting statuary declaration filled in as I didn’t have a receipt
I managed to get the RD registered today.
I was a bit worried they might send me to get an engineers certificate as due to the age of the bike it didn’t have a compliance plate, and it hadn’t been registered since 1979 so was not in vicroads system.
The girl at Warragul was looking for the vin number and couldn’t find it on the system so she asked if I had evidence of previous registration, when I pulled out the old 1979 sticker she said “Well that explains it its from the days of Noah thats why I cant find it”
The Bush Pig gets a Makeover!
It goes from this;
in one afternoon/evening!
And this is how it was done!
First the bit of mild steel exhaust pipe, injector-cap/shroud and threaded studs went,
and then I flared one end of a piece of
stainless 1,1/4″ tube 17,3/4″ long,
and welded to the combustion chamber with
the tapered shroud added at this time as well!
All that’s left to do is fabricate a large washer and weld it between the injector casing and the front of the tapered shroud, and then,……………………Fire It Up!
And fire it up I did,
seems I am very good at designing Ram-Jets,
shame, I’m setting out to design a Pulse-Jet!
The combustion seems to be happening in the beginning of the exhaust pipe not in the combustion chamber!
Mark and I branestormed about it last nite and came up with 3 possibilities;
1, the c/chmbr is too short,
(we’ll fix that by cutting the c/chmbr behind the spark-plug and adding more length to it!)
2, the air intake is too small,
( the fix here is a little out there cos I didn’t want to pull the injector assy apart, [I welded it too well!!] so we’ll drill down thru the shroud and c/chmbr at the front, to let in more air!, and seal the shroud temporarily with aluminium tape in case we need to adjust the airflow!)
3 the Shroud is too short.
(easy, I’ll get another 2 1/2″ to 3″ reducer and weld it to the original)(this will also act as a concentrator for the thrust created at this point!)
Well shit a brick!
I hooked up the Flasher Can to an Ignition Coil (out of the magneto off a old Briggs and Strugglin I had lying around!) and wired it to my Power Supply, and what do you know, a nice steady click,click,click, just like when you flick on your Indicator on you Car!
It throws a fair spark (a little on the orangey side) but certainly good enough to light an L.P.G. flame!
The poor quality of the spark is (I suspect) probably due to either;
no capacitor on the relay in the Flasher Can or,
that it is totally the Wrong coil or,
a combination of both!
I’ll rectify that by getting a proper G.T. 40 R Coil (they actually run on 8 Volts and only require 12 Volts when starting) .
The upshot is I may be able to run it off a 9 volt battery to keep it all compact!
(it draws a fair bit of current cos the relay spends most of the time in the normally closed position i.e. dead short! So if it runs on a 9 volt battery it’s already current limited!)
And of course, put a capacitor across the relay points in the Flasher Can!
Well that’s it!
First update complete.
Well Mark would be pleased,
looks like I’m actually writing a blog!
OK here goes.
It all started when I was a Kid and my Dad got me into building and flying Control Line Model Air-Craft,
I can’t really remember when I first heard of Pulse Jets but it was around then and, I have been fascinated ever since.
I’ve always wanted to build a Model of a V1 Flying Bomb (a.k.a. Buzz Bomb or Doodlebug. Best known during the Battle of Britain or more precisely the London Blitz.) and may still will but, to do that we need to acquire a power-plant i,e. a Pulse Jet. When I was a Kid they were banned in Victoria so, the only way to lay your hands on one was to send to the U.S. and mail order it or, build one. The problem there is, not a lot was known about them and, getting plans was nearly imposable! (no Internet back then!)
I sort of forgot (How could I?) until my early twenty’s when I met a Bloke who had built one and he showed it to me.
It was BEAUTIFUL! (the fires burn Bright again but,………….die again to embers)
Fast Forward to present!
So the desire to have one was put on the back-burner again until, my friend Mark (a.k.a, my personal I.T. Tech., friend, confidant and many other things!) stumbled me a heap of Pulse Jet sites and U-tube’s (not knowing of my previous hankerings. He didn’t know me when I was a kid!) So the Fuse (so to speak) was well and truly RE-LIT!
And now we come to about a month back and I decide to go to my local Exhaust Joint and bought some stainless tube 2 1/4″ (for the combustion chamber) 1 3/8″ (for the exhaust pipe [which turned out to be mild steel! oh well )
I cut a pair of triangles out of one end of the 2 1/4″ and heat and beat at it for the next 3 days! Till I had it necked down to the 1 3/8″ I needed and Mig Welded it all together.
Next I went to my local Honda dealer and got a small spark-plug (NGK CM 6) and then off to the Bolt Joint for a suitable nut and some stainless socket bolts, nuts and 2 large washers all M8 x 1.25. (these are for the L.P.G. injector. More about that later)
Next comes the big decision, Reed Valves or Valveless!
(now having started my time as an Outboard Mechanic I actually knew where to source out petal type reed valves! heh heh sneaky little bastard aren’t I!)
But I decided to go reed-less anyway!
And here’s what I came up with;
Looks pretty spiffy doesn’t it!
It isn’t actually finished quite yet, it needs to have the injector cap affixed to it and then it’s ready to fire up!
But last night I had a bout of design frenzy and came up with this sketch!
And so the Air Wasp was born!
(sorry about picture quality, my scanner seemed to read what was on the back of the page as well)
Obviously this is not to scale but I’m proud of my artist’s impression anyway! (I’ve never been very good at drawing I usually just picture it in my mind’s eye and then make it! [good for revisions that way, they’re instant!])
I’ve had an idea about where to source out stainless stuff, Milking Machine suppliers!
(comes from living in a Rural area and working on a Dairy Farm when I was 17)
No shit the stuff they’ve got on their shelves is Manna from Heaven to people who are interested in experimenting with Pulse Jets!
Trouble is it’s expensive!
But, not as expensive as having an engineer make it up for you!
I spent less than $50.00 AUD all up on building the first one, (pictured above)
It cost me 50 bucks just to acquire 3 pieces of stainless to start the Air Wasp!
But I’m willing to pay for Beauty, and you’ll see from the picture here that the potential is there to come up something really Beautiful!
As you can see the Air Wasp already looks good and I haven’t even done anything to it yet!
You can also see that the first one (which I think I’ll call the Bush Pig!) looks like it was home-made in someone’s back yard workshop, (it was, Mine!) but the Air Wasp will look like a Bought One!
(Don’t get me wrong I LOVE my Bush Pig[who wouldn’t?] but the Air Wasp well……………..!)
P.S, Air Wasp is sort of a tribute to my Dad, (who Passed Away last year). He raced Austin Specials in the 50s and 60s. He called his cars WASp. (Mk 1, Mk 2 and Mk 3.). Wasp stood for Woods Austin Special, which I have altered slightly to Woods Australian Special.
Hence Air Wasp!
Didn’t do a heap, just got out the boring bar and took some meat out of the combustion chamber (it was about 5 mm thick, so I bored it to about 2 mm thick) and
chamfered the rear of the combustion chamber to fit the cone a bit better.
Well for the life of me I can’t think “why not!” (well it did occur to me that the coil primary may require more Current (Amps) than the can could supply but, we can get around that if we need to! the idea is still basically sound!)
I’ve been to T.N.T. (my local Auto Parts Supplier) and Terry hooked me up with a 2 wire flasher-can (it can’t get any simpler)
And now we get to the bit where I say
“Watch This Space!”
It’s getting dark, my glasses are dirty and it’s getting hard to see to type, I’m hungry and so are my critters!
I’ll be back when I have more to update on the build!
Cheers, Mick. ;-))
It may seem a little quite on the front at the moment but in reality it is the sound of the dust settling on the mind of senility. What we have been doing is having a visit from sprocket2cog from over at sprocket2cog.twistedsouls.com (ed. my brother) and have been throwing ideas around and then waiting to see what we get….
In amongst a few black eyes and broken bones (you really must be careful throwing ideas around) we came up with a few new ideas and a few new tangents, so BASIC is back 🙂 and 8bit isn’t a 4 letter word.. no really it isn’t it is alphanumeric so 3 letters one number.
While I was at tyabblemons I asked the right question at the right time and inherited an RD250 Yamaha road bike circa 1974 I will get some pics up soon..
I am in the very early stages of developing a Home Theater PC. I am using a Sony DVP-S715 DVD (see review here) player as the basis for the case and hope to be able to use the genuine remote. I am thinking of the following bits and pieces.
- Use the original sony remote for the S715 player
- Small Form Factor Motherboard (VIA Eden ?)
- 512mb RAM
- 80 gig HDD for DVR (temp storage only)
- 2 gig Compact Flash RAM for OS
- 802.11g Wifi (most of the music/video content is on server)
- S VHS out
- Composite Video out
- All original buttons will work, some obscure DVD related ones will be reassigned.
- Where the display was I will make a flip down panel with card reader and USB
- MAME using Play station controllers for interface with USB adapters.
- Laptop Dual layer DVD burner
- 12 volt so it can be used in the car
Well thats about it for now, I dont have any money to do anything else for a while so it will gather dust for now….
I have been toying with an idea for a few days now, Mick is playing with acoustic cycle engines, more on them later with photos, but my idea is to reverse the cycle (ie. put motive force in) to get refrigeration out… hers a quick CAD mock I did nothing to flash but gives you an idea, active fan cooling on hot side at base of cylinder over fins, and passive fins in the cooling section, this should allow a large heat exchange area, in the center of the cylinder is the stack or re-generator, it holds the heat between the cycles. This could also be driven with sound as the motive force.
Mick and I are working on a design for a simple steam engine, once we have it all ready we will have the plans available for you to make your own, all from easy to find cheap parts.